Friday 26 December 2014

Reflections On Being Back In Harness

Well, it is the Christmas period now and we can be said to be thoroughly re-established into “normal” life now. We moved off the boat in September and in the middle of October we moved back into our London house. By the end of November we were both in work and now we are staying with my Mother for Christmas. At one level, it has all happened with dizzying speed but it also now feels a bit of a world away when GRIB files dominated our life and we were marvelling at paying €8 for a five litre box of wine. Now, we are pleased to find a bottle of wine for £5 that is drinkable and fret about engineering works at London Bridge Station. For the record, I am working in the Information Services Division at University College London while Audrey is working at the Institute of Cultural and Creative Entrepreneurship at Goldsmiths College. Both jobs are OK and we are settling down but there is a definite feeling of changed perspective. To put it simply, we want to go off again!

Almost every day is taken up with memories of “this time last year we were in blah or doing something or other” I am writing this on Boxing day and this picture shows a visit to Beira do Mar on the other side of Sao Vincente from Mindelo.
We also swap these “on this day” memories with friends also back here and on Facebook. Perhaps the best Christmas present I was given was a copy of Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Routes – a dreadful fueller of pipe dreams as it has detailed information on all major passages between cruising destinations in the world. That said, the journal of the Ocean Cruising Club has cured us of any residual desire to sail in high latitudes given the descriptions of escapades to Antarctica and the North West Passage. The most memorable comment I read was by a couple who had cruised up from Tierra del Fuego to Isla Chiloe in Chile. They had enjoyed the majestic scenery but were now thoroughly looking forward to sailing where the butter melted!

We shall have to see how things pan out.

Thursday 2 October 2014

Ideas And A Request

After gaining some experience of sailing long distance I have had the possibly arrogant idea of trying to pass on my incomparable wisdom to others. In short, I am looking at writing a how to book for an already crowded market. This is an introduction to a potential book.

The request is: Could anyone read through this and let me know if they think it is a goer. Bear in mind that this is an early version and any finished one would likely be very different.

All comments received with prolonged sulks and muttering about suppressing incipient genius!

Thank you in advance.



Yet Another Long Distance How-to
Almost everyone who tries long distance cruising sets out to write a book about how they did it with a view to helping others over the hurdles that they themselves had to overcome. This sort of writing has a long pedigree going back to Eric Hiscock Voyaging under Sail. Other illustrious writers such as Donald M. Street have also written detailed how to books. Some of these books are more useful than others of course though this is usually a function of style and the type of cruising you plan to undertake. This book is written from the perspective of the cruising we undertook. This consisted of starting with coastal cruising in UK waters. Subsequently, we completed a two month cruise to Gibraltar and then an Atlantic circuit.

The ideas and suggestions are not generally very original. Very little is new today and thousands of others have done it all before as well as overcome the same hurdles. There are some changes that are applicable now that are not covered in older books. These are usually technical developments such as new electronics or changes in the regulatory structure. The most striking example of this is Automatic Identification System or AIS. Other developments are more evolutionary in nature.

What I have tried to do in this book is to explore possible equipment and techniques with a view to what is tried and tested as well as delivering genuine benefit to a budget consious cruiser. If you read some websites and some sections of the yachting press you are flirting with imminent disaster if you don't load the boat up with enough electronics to make the cockpit of an airliner look a bit spartan. This is not usually conducive to increasing safety at sea or even comfort for that matter.

Although much has changed over the years, one thing has remained constant which is the sea itself. It is still around 2600 miles from Gran Canaria to Barbados and the trade winds should still be blowing for most of them. The cross seas from gales in the North Atlantic will still be an issue to contend with.

For example, someone who wishes to spend their whole time sailing on very long passages in high latitudes is not going to have much of use for the person who wishes to potter round the Greek Islands and is always tied up ashore at night. Between these two extremes there are probably as many different styles as there are cruisers. That fact notwithstanding, it is possible to group cruisers into broadly similar bands. These are my totally arbitrary descriptions.

Coastal cruisers who stay in their home waters.
European cruisers who stay in northern and western Europe.
Mediterranean cruisers
Medium term blue water cruisers
Long term blue water cruisers
Extreme cruisers

We list ourselves in the Medium term blue water category having planned and completed an Atlantic circuit but probably with no intention of transiting the Panama Canal. Thousands of others are planning or on similar or different cruises. A note on the final heading of extreme cruisers. These are the ones who enjoy visiting very remote areas with challenging weather patterns such as high latitudes or very long passage distances.

It should also be pointed out that what sort of cruise fits in to these categories can to an extent be quite subjective and is based on such things as the type of boat and experience of the crew. Crossing from Cowes to Le Harve would be quite an extreme cruise for a Wayfarer dinghy whereas crossing from Tenerife to St. Lucia in December would be quite a moderate passage for a 15 meter steel ketch. I personally know people who have done both of these voyages.

This book though is written from the standpoint of someone with a bit of money accumulated and a moderate size of boat who wishes to take a year or two out to explore further than their home waters in reasonable comfort.

Of course, there is a lot that can be learnt from all types of cruiser – and racers – for all. The experiences of people such as the Pardy's who have sailed in all the seas of the world can be invaluable for people who only want to have sufficient and interesting enough provisions to sustain them from Mindelo in the Cape Verde Islands to Barbados. Similarly, the skills acquired by repeated passages up and down the English Channel will also stand the person who is encountering the very strong tides in some of the Gulf Islands in British Columbia. Once again, size can play an important part and the twenty five foot coastal cruiser on a two week cruise can teach a lot about stowage to the forty footer embarking on a trip to the Mediterranean.

All types of cruising require that the skipper and crew should have and acquire a number of skills in a large number of areas. The further afield you go and the larger the boat, the wider the range of skills you will need until, the extreme cruiser will need to be almost entirely self sufficient in all aspects from boat handling to medical. Once again, point of view is very important for this. A smaller boat will not be able to carry as comprehensive a set of tools and spares as a larger boat. However, smaller and lighter boats are usually simpler and have fewer things that can go wrong so will need less spares. Provisions can be another matter and fitting sufficient water on a Hurley 22 for an ocean passage will be much more difficult than on a Rival 34. Hurleys, have of course crossed oceans but her skipper will have to be very careful in both planning and drinking water.

All types of cruising, but long distance cruising in particular, requires a lot of planning and preparation before departure. The more ambitious the plan, the more of this there will be. Some of this can be quite surprising. Not many people would give much thought to setting dates and locations for friends or family to join them for holidays but this can create a lot of headaches in your cruise plan once you are fully in the much slower routines of a year or more of living aboard. Once you have launched yourself, you will then find all the things that you thought you had planned for but hadn't. There will also be things that you assumed would be easy to manage while on the go that aren't. You will also find the things you worried about that with hindsight are not important.

Perhaps one of the biggest things in the planning process is the finances. This should really come before choosing a boat even as the budget will determine what sort of boat you can afford. Anne Hammick entitled her inspirational how to book Ocean Cruising on a Budget and she spends a lot of time in examining how the amount of money you have will affect all aspects of your voyage. Earlier writers did not give nearly as much attention to money or even how to manage it on the move. This may be a feature of the democratisation of sailing or it may just be a reflection of how society views these matters. There can of course be no doubt that the pioneers such as the Pye or Hiscocks devoted a considerable amount of their energies to managing their finances but did not document it in the detail we do now. Today, some aspects of managing your finances have become much easier – internet banking being an obvious example.

Many aspects of sailing have not changed for centuries. Weather patterns, currents and coastal features are essentially the same as they were for our ancestors even if climate change may be affecting them. Other aspects have changed out of all recognition of course. There will not be many cruisers who rely exclusively on a sextant and chronometer for fixing their position. The electronics revolution is too widely documented elsewhere to warrant much examination here except in the context of a cruiser needing to be as self sufficient at possible. Very few people (even electronic engineers) would be suitably equipped with skills and tools to fix a modern chart plotter should a rogue dollop of sea water get into it and stop it from behaving normally. On the other hand, a long distance crew might well feel that it would be wise to learn how to splice braided rope as this is now used almost everywhere on boats. On the other hand, familiarity with stockholm tar is now only a requirement of the minority of people who own traditionally built wooden boats.

The classic works on cruising have no mention at all of an issue that is now very much at the forefront of our minds and that is our impact on the world. Sailing, has the potential to be a very “green” pastime and way of life. However, without getting stuck into the minutiae of debates on the environmental impact of sailing, it is clear that we need to leave as little behind us as we move around the world. In the past no one would have considered the need to fit a holding tank or been concerned about how their anchor affected the growth of eel grass. Now, all this and more is of critical importance and dominates our thoughts.

Finally, perhaps the most important consideration is that the whole enterprise should be fun. I have long recited a mantra: “Unless everyone is enjoying themselves it isn't fun and we won't do it.” Going cruising at any level takes a lot of effort and often sacrifice. Therefore, the reward should be that it is enjoyable for all who are involved in the project. Of course, not all times and activities can be a rip roaring laugh all the time but the bits that are not so nice should be so that a later time can definitely be fun. Time spent in a dirty smelly harbour with constant wash from passing fishboats disturbing your sleep should be because that harbour is a convenient stopover on the way to the Rio Guadiana between Spain and Portugal. At the other end of the scale. If one member of the crew is uncomfortable with being offshore; either the plans need to be changed or another compromise is reached.

If you can work through all the compromises and the preparation it is a wonderful way of travelling and seeing parts of the world.

© Roger Kynaston 2014

Wednesday 17 September 2014

Photo Album Updated

It seems I can't stay away from this thing! I have completely redone the online photo album of this cruise. For the very brave/foolhardy there are 249 pictures in the link below. Some, if not most, are probably dotted around the various blog posts over the past eighteen months. I am not a sufficiently good photographer to be able to have 250 odd extra good photos exclusive of the ones I have put online already.

Cruise Album

Happy viewing I hope!

Wednesday 10 September 2014

The End of the Cruise

Well, we have closed the circle now and brought Sarah Giddings to her old mooring in Torpoint. This is where our crusie really started in August of 2011. I had managed to negotiate a two month sabbatical from work as a chance to dip out toes in the long distance thing. We loved it of course so set out to do the job properly. Now the job has been done properly and we are back where we started. Truly, the cruise can be said to be over. Sadly, the last bit was all motoring in flat calm from Fowey. Still, we will be laying her up in the Exeter Canal Basin so hope to get some last sailing in before the end of the season.

It has been a wonderful experience for us and we are planning the next one already. It is impossible to choose any one part as a real highlight unless it was our first ocean landfall at Porto Santo in the Madeira group. We can honestly say we loved nearly all of it. Even the frustrating bits like being becalmed in the western approaches are a good part of it in retrospect.

Arriving in Plymouth Sound and picking up the mooring here at Torpoint was a slightly odd experience though. All the very familiar landmarks came up along with our first proper experience of strong tides in nearly three years. The welcome here at the Harbour was very friendly as well and we were pleased to tell them that we will be taking a mooring here next year.

Next year we will be back to coastal cruising and we plan to explore Brittany as well, which will be a new cruising ground for us to visit. Of plans for further extended cruising, it will take a few years to top up the kitty. When we do go we hope to cover much the same ground but much more slowly. Time will tell.

For now, this will be the last blog post of this cruise and I will be updating things much less regularly – essentially when there is something cruise related to tell rather than of our day to day stuff in either work or coastal cruising.

Here are a few pictures of major stages in the cruise along with the parting shot of Plymouth I took in August 2011.

What it looked like when we left:

Arrival in 2014!


A few "highlights"
First view of Gibraltar at the start of the proper cruise

Cabo Trafalgar

Rabat - we leave Europe

A crooked landfall at Porto Santo

Landfall at Cabo Verde

Indian River - Dominica

Waterspout Mid-Atlantic

Landfall at Azores

First sight of Blighty after eighteen months

Tuesday 2 September 2014

First Week Back

We have been a week back here now and are now more or less used to being up here now. We haven't got used to the cold yet! We have also started the process of looking for work - another depressing feature but a necessary one. We have now also got a date for moving back into our house in London and will be in a house in the middle of October. In the meantime we will be pottering along the south Cornwall and Devon coastline until we get to the river Exe where we will be laying up.

Falmouth has been very busy owing to the Classics regatta coinciding with a visit by the tall ships fleet. After a few days it all became a bit busy for us so we fled up the river for a couple of days. It is beautiful up there.



Classics/Tall Ships was photogenic of course.


Friday 29 August 2014

Back in Blighty – The Long Version

Having now spent nearly a week in Falmouth we can be said to be back in Blighty for definite now. It still feels very strange, not least since we will not be moving into our house till the middle of October.

A last sight of the night scene in Horta

Keen eyed readers will remember that we intended to set out from Horta on 09 August. However, the wind was blowing pretty hard and we didn't fancy a very rough first night at sea so we diverted to Velas on Sao Jorge and actually left the Archipelago on the tenth.

The passage from the Azores was a rather slow affair and took fourteen days in all. As expected, we had to motor for a fair bit to get clear of the islands. We passed quite close to Graciosa and it looked extremely enticing. Thankfully however the wind filled in from there and we had a good few days heading north east till we were off the middle of the Bay of Biscay. There a ridge of high pressure built and took all our wind away, we motored as much as we dared and managed to pick up a bit of wind to keep on the move until we were about five hundred miles out to the west of Brittany where the wind abandoned us completely.

By this time fuel was getting low so we were left with sails in whatever zephyr we could catch. We did catch a bit of wind as we crossed the continental shelf but then had nearly two days of calm until about 30 miles west of the Isles of Scilly. From there an Atlantic low started rolling in to give us a thrilling last 100 miles or so. At dawn we were still west of the Bishop Rock on Scilly but we still tied up before sun down in Falmouth. Our first sight of land – appropriately enough – was Lands End but we were able to pass quite close to Lizard point which we class as our landfall. Arrival was enlivened by being welcomed by my Brother, Matthew with a supply of Betty Stoggs beer!

Landfall around lunch time with a force 6 to 7 from the south.

While off the Lizard, a gray boat passed west. I assumed it was a bit of Navy but it came round and turned into the Eborders boat who tried to board us in what was effectively the tidal race! They did not manage but proceeded to ask us the standard questions over the radio! We fully expected to be boarded in Falmouth and they were tied up there but we were roundly ignored! All quite exciting in its way.

Falmouth is very busy at the moment with their annual regatta being supplemented by a visit by the tall ships fleet. We are still struggling to come to terms with the weather though. We have appreciated the good beer though.

A few pictures of the classics and tall ships



I'll update as we move on. We do want to visit Plymouth so as to “close the circle” given that we departed the UK from there in August 2011.

Thursday 28 August 2014

BIB - Back in Blighty

Greetings everyone.

We have arrived in Falmouth and have effectively finished the cruise. We actually arrived on 24 August but have had trouble getting hold of electricity and wifi to first charge and then use the laptop.

The passage from the Azores was a rather slow one but we are more or less pleased to be here though not really ready to finish cruising yet. I will update with a longer description of the passage and such like soon.

Thursday 7 August 2014

Departure of Mini 6.50s

Well, just a day before our own planned departure, the mini 6.50 Les Sables-Azores-Les Sables boats started their return leg.

I went out to watch with our current neighbour on Kasira. The start was quite dramatic with a good breeze blowing. Sadly, the pictures are not that spectacular as the photographer was not really doing a very good job!




We impressed with their speed but also slightly alarmed by the number of near broaches on the start line. Good luck to them all of course. They should be back in Les Sables D'Olonne in six or seven days for the fastest. We hope to be half way to Falmouth by then.

Monday 4 August 2014

Last Lap

We are getting ready for our last long passage back to the UK. After a small change, we are now leaving direct from Horta on Faial rather than heading to the island of Terceira first. They are celebrating their Semana do Mar this week and we felt like staying for that which meant we have been unable to take in Terceira. It has however been fun and we do not regret it despite being very crowded on the wall here.
This morning saw us doing the ritual large food shop in the supermarket with a lengthy list of staples and some luxury snacks to tide us over long night watches. This is a strange passage to be preparing for. It is only half the distance of our passage from the Caribbean but is in much more northerly lattitudes and so the weather is much less predictable. It will also be getting colder as we get north as well. However, there is really an end of cruise feeling now. We are, most likely, ready to move on from the Azores but not really ready to stop cruising and pick up the threads of a shore based life yet.

The local band marches by after the official opening.

A local laser sponsored by Dunkin Donuts! Not sure that it would be wise to over indulge before heading out for a race though.

The Semana do Mar is a lot of fun though the bands can be a bit noisy at night. Still, they are nothing compared to the racket we had to try and sleep through in English Harbour Antigua. We were favoured by a visit from the Mayor of Horta giving all the visiting cruisers a gift of local produce (cheese), hydrangeas and a program of events. The cheese was delicious. There have been various processions and as I write this there is an informal racers for single handers though they call it the lonesome sailors regatta. A bit of a mistranslation from Portuguese I suspect. The Mini 6.50 boat head back to Les Sable D'Olonne at 1300 tomorrow. This has dictated our planned departure for Wednesday so as not to have to tangle with them.

The food stalls have been excellent and Audrey went into ecstasies over the local sausage.

We had a "black helicopter" fly over our head this morning!
As usual, we will be out of touch while at sea of course but hope to be arriving in Falmouth around 19-21 August if anyone is in Cornwall and would like to help us drink some Betty Stoggs. Audrey has expressed a longing for a pie though. I have to say that real ale is the only thing I have seriously missed about the UK.

Monday 28 July 2014

Events in Horta

Well, the weather has been dire here which is ironic given that I understand that it has been warm and sunny in Blighty. Today, in particular, I got caught out in a tremendous thunderstorm coming back from the supermarket. Still, we have had a bit of excitement with a mini 6.50 race arriving over the last couple of days.

You can follow the race here

You really have to admire the people who enter this sort of race. the boats are 6.5 meters long or about 21 feet. They then sail offshore and even across the Atlantic. The newest boats are rather strange looking as well. Apparently, the wide spoon shaped bow gives them more buoyancy which makes the boats drier and so faster.


Sunday 27 July 2014

Two Days Of Tourism

We spent two days doing the tourist thing by hiring a car, first here on Faial and then on Pico. Of course the weather did not cooperate and we had low clouds and some heavy rain. Mind you that is nothing to what it is like now!

Here are a selection of pictures for your viewing pleasure as they used to say on television.

First, we visited the volcanic area at the western extremity of the island. We had seen this from seaward as we approached Faial but it was intriguing to see it close to. They have built quite a good visitor center under the disused lighthouse which explains the history of the earth, volcanoes generally and Faial specifically. The weather was very cloudy to downright foggy but it made it very atmospheric.




We then drove round the island. The cloud was too low to visit the caldeira in the middle of the island unfortunately.

The hydrngeas are truly amazing on this island and they have their own unique variety.



Proof we hired a car and a plague dedicated to the first Portuguese to sail solo round the world:


Audrey and my Mother


Next up was Pico! The weather was even patchier except when we were in familiar bits from our stay in Lajes so here are fewer ones here.



Wednesday 23 July 2014

Back to Horta

But not the Future thankfully.

Sorry, that was a dreadful joke but it had to be done!

We have been back in Horta for the last few days and will be here for around another week before heading for Terceira and then on to the UK possibly via NW Spain.

My Mother arrived after a very long journey by train from Bradford-on-Avon to Lisbon via London, Paris, Irun, and Vigo. She then got a plane out to here.

We had a nice enough sail for all of 22 miles from Velas on Sao Jorge though the wind first died and then filled in from the nose along with a strong tide for the last bit. Still, we have been enjoying seeing more of Horta and will be hiring a car to visit Faial properly as well as getting the ferry to Pico and doing the same with a car there.

We also had a chance to catch up with Bruce and Gina on Karinya who showed us to the best tea shop we have seen for a long time. They grow tea on the islands and the tea drinkers we know (Audrey in particular) reckon it is very good for you tea connoisieurs.
Here are some photos of Horta.

Horta has some very elegant squares and this one is in front of the University with a spectacular view across to Pico (when you can see it).

We found a huge and sadly derelict house all overgrown with a notice that it was to be demolished. Chance for someone with a big Euro lottery win though.

The Casa tea house has a lovely garden complete with cute cats.

It also has this intriguing drainage channel in it.

Another square and a monument to an earthquake that devastated a village called Praia do Norte in the seventeenth century.

They have some very large old trees on this island as well.

The flowers are truly amazing on these islands and I may try to get a horticultural entry for those legions of gardeners who devour these ramblings.