Got To the Algarve

For various reason we have been out of wifi for a while so here is a big update. We really liked Baiona and the passage pas the Islas Cies really gave us a wish to be able to come back with more time and a permit to anchor there.6 After originally planning to go into the marina at Baiona, we decided to anchor on the spur of the moment which proved to be a very good idea. Firstly, it is always better to be at anchor generally as well as being free. Secondly, we met up with a fascinating woman called Ellie on her rebuilt Hilliard nine tonner. We had originally met her in Muxia but we joined her for a drink and exchanged various stories about sailing of which she had an enormous fund. The next day was to be the big kick off for a long passage down to the Algarve. It all started very auspiciously with a nice fresh northerly to speed us south. The problem was that it proceeded to become brisker and brisker till it was gusting more then 35 knots quite a lot. As the sun got lower it became clear that it wasn't going to drop very quickly and neither of us fancied a long rough night. Had the wind stayed below 30 knots most of the time I would have pushed on but the seas started to build and some of them were breaking, though not seriously thankfully. As the sun reached setting point we decided to stop at Leixoes and visit Port which we had always wanted to do anyway. The approach to Leixoes was an interesting one. The coastline here is very low lying and the first thing I saw was the light at Leca while still 12 miles away. Then as we closed the harbour all the shipping decided to get moving including a cruise ship called the Braemar - all lit up like a Christmas tree and headed for Dover of all places according to the video game (AIS). Still, we got in at 12:20 Spanish time and dropped anchor and went to bed exhausted. Today, we went into the marina which is very friendly and helpful. We have dropped our laundry off which will all be done for 2 Euros a kilo. The showers were nice and there are some nice friendly people here and all for less than half the price of a marina in Galicia. We then walked to the metro and went into Porto. I am really glad we did as it is a beautiful city in an incredibly dramatic location. It is such a shame that the entrance to the Douro river is so difficult as it would be great to take a boat up to Porto. We had a lunch which included a local speciality for Audrey. We can't remember the name of it but it consists of ham, sausage and steak between two slices of bread with melted cheese on top, the whole then being soaked in spicy tomato sauce. The best heart attack on a plate you can imagine!

Following that, we walked across the bridge and visited the Sandeman Port house. The tour was of average interest but it was nice to see the port being produced and the tasting was also interesting as well though I would have preferred the 15 Euro tour with more to taste. I then scared their gift shop into a fit by buying a bottle of 2007 vintage port. I will open it for my sixtieth birthday when it should be nice and mature. I also got two bottles of ten year old tawny. Leixoes is very different from the places we have been visiting. It is a port pure and simple with no tourism or anything like that. The approach made that clear but it is interesting to be in a purely working port and the marina is excellent though you can smell the port as soon as you come past the breakwater. Others tried to persuade us to stop at Povoa de Varzim rather than here but I am pleased we came here. A cruise ship left this afternoon and the tug/fireboat gave it a traditional send off with all the water spraying. All in all it was an excellent day and the weather proved very fortuitous in stopping here. 19/09 This netbook seems to be throwing a bit of a wobbler and the track pad is not working now but at least the keyboard is working so I will soldier on. We are in Sines now having sailed a good couple of hundred miles from Leixoes. The sailing has been brisk to say the least. The nortada has certainly been reliable though a good bit stronger than what the books give you to understand. The theory is that over the summer they build form the north blowing from between 16 to 25 knots. In the afternoon, the sea breeze is supposed to augment the wind so it typically blows harder the afternoon and then drops when the sun goes down. Our experience however is that it seems to drop a bit in the afterrnon sometimes and then gets up and blows a high force 6 to 7 all night and often through the morning. 20 knots seems to be the minimum except occasionally. The sell has also been quite big which has made for a fast but roller coaster of a ride. We have been clocking up good averages with nearly 110 miles a day being possib le. It has been quite uncomfortable though. At least the engine has had a bit of a rest. We sailed right through the night to Cascais arriving there just after sundown. Coming round Cabo da Roca was an exciting experience. The winds had actually started moderating in the run up to it but when we got round and started heading for Cabo Raso they blew up in no uncertain terms and we recorded a consistent 38 knots with gusts to the mid forties for about five miles. They then moderated until we turned into Cascais a couple of miles further on from Cabo Raso. We anchored and all night the wind was howling a gale. It moderated a bit in the early hours. At least I had got tired of worrying if the anchor was dragging and got faith that it was well dug in.

We took a flyer on not doing the official checking in with authorities at Cascais looking on it as a psssage stop rather than a proper stop. Certainly we didn't go ashore. Yesterday we took off a bit later as we were wondering if the wind was really blowing as hard as it seemed to be but left around 10:30 for Sines. The sail was much the same – 53 miles of fast rolly sailing. The entrance here was very exciting though. Firstly, the end of the breakwater is derelict for 500 meters past the light supposedly on it's end. There is a red bouy to leave to port which is “lit” and so easy to find. We couldn't find it at all. After deciding that we must be past the broken bit we made a turn in. In the dark I saw some jagged bits just as Audrey shouted that she could see the bouy off to our starboard (the wrong) side! We hastily made a rapid turn and snuck round the correct side of it. Then, to add to the excitement, we descried a tanker on the move. Sines is a major tanker port and can handle ships up to 400,000 tons. Cue another rapid about face and gilling around waiting for it to clear. We then headed in but were perturbed to see tugs hanging around. Sure enough, another one started heading in! Luckily we were sufficient far advanced not to have to bother it. The wind was still blowing very hard but it eassed nicely as we got into the old harbour where yachts can anchor. We would rather avoid that sort of excitement in the future. The anchorage and town are interesting. From the boat you would hardly know that there was a major oil port outside as it is all behind the breakwaters and there is a nice sandy beach in front of us with people sunbathing and gingerly swimming in the clear water. Above that is the old town. It is mostly famous for being the birthplace of Vasco da Gama who established Portuguese trading links with India at about the same time as Columbus was getting ready to open up the Americas to plundering by rapacious europeans from Spain and the UK. Tomorrow we start the last bit of the Atlantic stage of this adventure when we make the final hop down to Cabo da Sao Vincente. This is an enormously evocative point. It is the southwesternmost corner of this peninsula though not the furthest west ponit. Cabo da Roca takes that honour at 9° 30' W. For information, this well to the west of Cork in Ireland though not as far west as the west coast of Ireland. After Sao Vincente, we will be all east bound and on the last lap of the trip. 20/09

Well, we are round Sao Vincente. The anchoreage is rather rolly here behind Cabo de Sagres but it feels fantastic to be round the final big point of the voyage. The cape also lived up to expectations in all ways as the photo shows. We took a bunch more but will refrain from cluttering up the interrtubes with them. 21/09 Now we are in Lagos and a complete contrast with a major tourist resort town complete with english cafes serving egg and chips though the marina is useful. We need to do laundry and such like as well as wifi access. The wind has been disappointing after the roller coaster down the northern end of Portugal. We had no wind at all from Sines and none this morning coming round from Sagres. It is also a lot hotter here and we really feel that we are in the south. A meal ashore is called for this evening as well as a shower for us and a good clean out for the boat.