Isla de Lobos

For the first time in goodness knows how many years we had an anchorage to ourselves. There were about five or six boats anchored here when we arrived but then they all upped and left leaving ourselves for the rest of the night.

Of course, we are not right out in the wilderness and you can see the lights of Corralejo over the water only about two miles away. The water is crystal clear and while looking over the side to see if we could see the anchor, a ray passed. It must have been about three feet across. I am now very unpractised at snorkelling otherwise, I would have been tempted to swim the 8 meters or so down to see it.

We walked all round the island. It only took about three hours but was very pleasant though the whole island is a barren mix of lava and sedimentary rocks. It used to be full of fur seals but these were hunted to extinction many years ago. The visitor centre talks about how the first Spanish settlers here did just that. More recently, there was an attempt to develop salt pans but they were too late as the wider use of refrigeration in the fifties killed the demand for salt and the pans were abandoned. There is a lighthouse on the northern side of the island which is typically Spanish being large with a big building now abandoned. I have long thought that lighthouse authorities could make a useful bit of income letting out their old keepers houses and cottages to people who wanted a lonely holiday spot.

We didn't quite climb the highest hill but got this dramatic view of the path.

On the south east side of the island is a tiny hamlet called El Puertito. It really is a miniature harbour being built next to a rocky inlet and having a few boats moored up. It is far too shallow for us of course but we may explore it in the dinghy. I presume that the original inhabitants used to fish from it. They all look like holiday cottages now though there is clearly no electricity as all the houses have either solar cells or a wind generator.

Through the day, some other boats have arrived and they are likely to stay the night. First to arrive was Pampero of Down who are keen snorkellers. They had a look at the reef that guards the lagoon in the bay here and said it is teeming with fish who follow you around. We are probably going to stay another night and see about exploring there ourselves. Next up a tiny French boat has arrived and are eagerly diving off their boat as well.

I took a swim in the water which was very refreshing. It was a slightly strange feeling swimming in nearly thirty feet of sapphire blue water and able to see the sandy bottom underneath me.

Finally, after having the anchorage to ourselves, no less than four other boats have now anchored – one of whom was Pampero. And so ends one of my more enjoyable birthdays!

N.B.
We are only able to get the intertubes via a 3G dongle at the moment so I am having to be a bit mean with uploading photos. Lots to follow when we have a fast wifi connection.