Thursday, 22 September 2011
A day in Lagos
We were intending to get the bus out to Sagres and have a look from the land where we had been at such a rolly anchorage but got delayed by chatting with Edmund on the fellow Rival moored next to us. Instead, we took a bit of a walk along the beach to the east of Lagos and then through the town and had lunch in a very nice tapas bar as recommended by the Rough Guide.
It felt very strange walking along the beach as it was of course, packed with sunbathers. Neither of us have done a beach holiday for decades and it emphatically isn't our thing. Clearly it is for lots of people though and there was an almost overwhelming pong of suntan cream and acres of naked flesh on show. We were quite relieved to get to the harbour channel and cross over to start the sort of tourism we are more familiar with.
Lagos is very much a tourist town and english is almost ubiquitous everywhere - a marked contrast from the towns on the Atlantic coast. We'll be interested to see what the rest of the Algarve is like.
On another front. Our faltering steps into the world of chart plotters took a big step forward when we acquired some charts and tried them in opencpn. We also borrowed a usb gps receiver from Edmund which works a treat. I have ordered one from Amazon now but, in the meantime, will work to get by with my smart phone for which there is an app to allow it to work as a gps tether. The whole process is a bit odd and I am not used to the concept yet. More on this later I suppose. Photos will also follow soon.
Wednesday, 21 September 2011
Got To the Algarve
For various reason we have been out of wifi for a while so here is a big update.
We really liked Baiona and the passage pas the Islas Cies really gave us a wish to be able to come back with more time and a permit to anchor there.6 After originally planning to go into the marina at Baiona, we decided to anchor on the spur of the moment which proved to be a very good idea. Firstly, it is always better to be at anchor generally as well as being free. Secondly, we met up with a fascinating woman called Ellie on her rebuilt Hilliard nine tonner. We had originally met her in Muxia but we joined her for a drink and exchanged various stories about sailing of which she had an enormous fund.
The next day was to be the big kick off for a long passage down to the Algarve. It all started very auspiciously with a nice fresh northerly to speed us south. The problem was that it proceeded to become brisker and brisker till it was gusting more then 35 knots quite a lot. As the sun got lower it became clear that it wasn't going to drop very quickly and neither of us fancied a long rough night. Had the wind stayed below 30 knots most of the time I would have pushed on but the seas started to build and some of them were breaking, though not seriously thankfully. As the sun reached setting point we decided to stop at Leixoes and visit Port which we had always wanted to do anyway.
The approach to Leixoes was an interesting one. The coastline here is very low lying and the first thing I saw was the light at Leca while still 12 miles away. Then as we closed the harbour all the shipping decided to get moving including a cruise ship called the Braemar - all lit up like a Christmas tree and headed for Dover of all places according to the video game (AIS). Still, we got in at 12:20 Spanish time and dropped anchor and went to bed exhausted.
Today, we went into the marina which is very friendly and helpful. We have dropped our laundry off which will all be done for 2 Euros a kilo. The showers were nice and there are some nice friendly people here and all for less than half the price of a marina in Galicia.
We then walked to the metro and went into Porto. I am really glad we did as it is a beautiful city in an incredibly dramatic location. It is such a shame that the entrance to the Douro river is so difficult as it would be great to take a boat up to Porto. We had a lunch which included a local speciality for Audrey. We can't remember the name of it but it consists of ham, sausage and steak between two slices of bread with melted cheese on top, the whole then being soaked in spicy tomato sauce. The best heart attack on a plate you can imagine!
Following that, we walked across the bridge and visited the Sandeman Port house. The tour was of average interest but it was nice to see the port being produced and the tasting was also interesting as well though I would have preferred the 15 Euro tour with more to taste. I then scared their gift shop into a fit by buying a bottle of 2007 vintage port. I will open it for my sixtieth birthday when it should be nice and mature. I also got two bottles of ten year old tawny.
Leixoes is very different from the places we have been visiting. It is a port pure and simple with no tourism or anything like that. The approach made that clear but it is interesting to be in a purely working port and the marina is excellent though you can smell the port as soon as you come past the breakwater. Others tried to persuade us to stop at Povoa de Varzim rather than here but I am pleased we came here. A cruise ship left this afternoon and the tug/fireboat gave it a traditional send off with all the water spraying.
All in all it was an excellent day and the weather proved very fortuitous in stopping here.
19/09
This netbook seems to be throwing a bit of a wobbler and the track pad is not working now but at least the keyboard is working so I will soldier on.
We are in Sines now having sailed a good couple of hundred miles from Leixoes. The sailing has been brisk to say the least. The nortada has certainly been reliable though a good bit stronger than what the books give you to understand. The theory is that over the summer they build form the north blowing from between 16 to 25 knots. In the afternoon, the sea breeze is supposed to augment the wind so it typically blows harder the afternoon and then drops when the sun goes down. Our experience however is that it seems to drop a bit in the afterrnon sometimes and then gets up and blows a high force 6 to 7 all night and often through the morning. 20 knots seems to be the minimum except occasionally. The sell has also been quite big which has made for a fast but roller coaster of a ride. We have been clocking up good averages with nearly 110 miles a day being possib le. It has been quite uncomfortable though. At least the engine has had a bit of a rest.
We sailed right through the night to Cascais arriving there just after sundown. Coming round Cabo da Roca was an exciting experience. The winds had actually started moderating in the run up to it but when we got round and started heading for Cabo Raso they blew up in no uncertain terms and we recorded a consistent 38 knots with gusts to the mid forties for about five miles. They then moderated until we turned into Cascais a couple of miles further on from Cabo Raso. We anchored and all night the wind was howling a gale. It moderated a bit in the early hours. At least I had got tired of worrying if the anchor was dragging and got faith that it was well dug in.
We took a flyer on not doing the official checking in with authorities at Cascais looking on it as a psssage stop rather than a proper stop. Certainly we didn't go ashore.
Yesterday we took off a bit later as we were wondering if the wind was really blowing as hard as it seemed to be but left around 10:30 for Sines. The sail was much the same – 53 miles of fast rolly sailing. The entrance here was very exciting though.
Firstly, the end of the breakwater is derelict for 500 meters past the light supposedly on it's end. There is a red bouy to leave to port which is “lit” and so easy to find. We couldn't find it at all. After deciding that we must be past the broken bit we made a turn in. In the dark I saw some jagged bits just as Audrey shouted that she could see the bouy off to our starboard (the wrong) side! We hastily made a rapid turn and snuck round the correct side of it. Then, to add to the excitement, we descried a tanker on the move. Sines is a major tanker port and can handle ships up to 400,000 tons. Cue another rapid about face and gilling around waiting for it to clear. We then headed in but were perturbed to see tugs hanging around. Sure enough, another one started heading in! Luckily we were sufficient far advanced not to have to bother it. The wind was still blowing very hard but it eassed nicely as we got into the old harbour where yachts can anchor. We would rather avoid that sort of excitement in the future.
The anchorage and town are interesting. From the boat you would hardly know that there was a major oil port outside as it is all behind the breakwaters and there is a nice sandy beach in front of us with people sunbathing and gingerly swimming in the clear water. Above that is the old town. It is mostly famous for being the birthplace of Vasco da Gama who established Portuguese trading links with India at about the same time as Columbus was getting ready to open up the Americas to plundering by rapacious europeans from Spain and the UK.
Tomorrow we start the last bit of the Atlantic stage of this adventure when we make the final hop down to Cabo da Sao Vincente. This is an enormously evocative point. It is the southwesternmost corner of this peninsula though not the furthest west ponit. Cabo da Roca takes that honour at 9° 30' W. For information, this well to the west of Cork in Ireland though not as far west as the west coast of Ireland. After Sao Vincente, we will be all east bound and on the last lap of the trip.
20/09
Well, we are round Sao Vincente. The anchoreage is rather rolly here behind Cabo de Sagres but it feels fantastic to be round the final big point of the voyage. The cape also lived up to expectations in all ways as the photo shows. We took a bunch more but will refrain from cluttering up the interrtubes with them.
21/09
Now we are in Lagos and a complete contrast with a major tourist resort town complete with english cafes serving egg and chips though the marina is useful. We need to do laundry and such like as well as wifi access. The wind has been disappointing after the roller coaster down the northern end of Portugal. We had no wind at all from Sines and none this morning coming round from Sagres. It is also a lot hotter here and we really feel that we are in the south. A meal ashore is called for this evening as well as a shower for us and a good clean out for the boat.
Thursday, 15 September 2011
Fogged in
Thick fog this morning. I doubt we will be moving unless something dramatic happens. There is a fog horn blowing mournfully at the entrance to the harbour and that is about all we can see. At least the northerlies are holding so we should still be able to get south when we can move.
Wednesday, 14 September 2011
First stop in Portugal
We really liked Baiona and the passage pas the Islas Cies really gave us a wish to be able to come back with more time and a permit to anchor there.6 After originally planning to go into the marina at Baiona, we decided to anchor on the spur of the moment which proved to be a very good idea. Firstly, it is always better to be at anchor generally as well as being free. Secondly, we met up with a fascinating woman called Ellie on her rebuilt Hilliard nine tonner. We had originally met her in Muxia but we joined her for a drink and exchanged various stories about sailing of which she had an enormous fund.
The next day was to be the big kick off for a long passage down to the Algarve. It all started very auspiciously with a nice fresh northerly to speed us south. The problem was that it proceeded to become brisker and brisker till it was gusting more then 35 knots quite a lot. As the sun got lower it became clear that it wasn't going to drop very quickly and neither of us fancied a long rough night. Had the wind stayed below 30 knots most of the time I would have pushed on but the seas started to build and some of them were breaking, though not seriously thankfully. As the sun reached setting point we decided to stop at Leixoes and visit Port which we had always wanted to do anyway.
The approach to Leixoes was an interesting one. The coastline here is very low lying and the first thing I saw was the light at Leca while still 12 miles away. Then as we closed the harbour all the shipping decided to get moving including a cruise ship called the Braemar - all lit up like a Christmas tree and headed for Dover of all places according to the video game (AIS). Still, we got in at 12:20 Spanish time and dropped anchor and went to bed exhausted.
Today, we went into the marina which is very friendly and helpful. We have dropped our laundry off which will all be done for 2 Euros a kilo. The showers were nice and there are some nice friendly people here and all for less than half the price of a marina in Galicia.
We then walked to the metro and went into Porto. I am really glad we did as it is a beautiful city in an incredibly dramatic location. It is such a shame that the entrance to the Douro river is so difficult as it would be great to take a boat up to Porto. We had a lunch which included a local speciality for Audrey. We can't remember the name of it but it consists of ham, sausage and steak between two slices of bread with melted cheese on top, the whole then being soaked in spicy tomato sauce. The best heart attack on a plate you can imagine!
Following that, we walked across the bridge and visited the Sandeman Port house. The tour was of average interest but it was nice to see the port being produced and the tasting was also interesting as well though I would have preferred the 15 Euro tour with more to taste. I then scared their gift shop into a fit by buying a bottle of 2007 vintage port. I will open it for my sixtieth birthday when it should be nice and mature. I also got two bottles of ten year old tawny.
Leixoes is very different from the places we have been visiting. It is a port pure and simple with no tourism or anything like that. The approach made that clear but it is interesting to be in a purely working port and the marina is excellent though you can smell the port as soon as you come past the breakwater. Others tried to persuade us to stop at Povoa de Varzim rather than here but I am pleased we came here. A cruise ship left this afternoon and the tug/fireboat gave it a traditional send off with all the water spraying.
All in all it was an excellent day and the weather proved very fortuitous in stopping here.
The next day was to be the big kick off for a long passage down to the Algarve. It all started very auspiciously with a nice fresh northerly to speed us south. The problem was that it proceeded to become brisker and brisker till it was gusting more then 35 knots quite a lot. As the sun got lower it became clear that it wasn't going to drop very quickly and neither of us fancied a long rough night. Had the wind stayed below 30 knots most of the time I would have pushed on but the seas started to build and some of them were breaking, though not seriously thankfully. As the sun reached setting point we decided to stop at Leixoes and visit Port which we had always wanted to do anyway.
The approach to Leixoes was an interesting one. The coastline here is very low lying and the first thing I saw was the light at Leca while still 12 miles away. Then as we closed the harbour all the shipping decided to get moving including a cruise ship called the Braemar - all lit up like a Christmas tree and headed for Dover of all places according to the video game (AIS). Still, we got in at 12:20 Spanish time and dropped anchor and went to bed exhausted.
Today, we went into the marina which is very friendly and helpful. We have dropped our laundry off which will all be done for 2 Euros a kilo. The showers were nice and there are some nice friendly people here and all for less than half the price of a marina in Galicia.
We then walked to the metro and went into Porto. I am really glad we did as it is a beautiful city in an incredibly dramatic location. It is such a shame that the entrance to the Douro river is so difficult as it would be great to take a boat up to Porto. We had a lunch which included a local speciality for Audrey. We can't remember the name of it but it consists of ham, sausage and steak between two slices of bread with melted cheese on top, the whole then being soaked in spicy tomato sauce. The best heart attack on a plate you can imagine!
Following that, we walked across the bridge and visited the Sandeman Port house. The tour was of average interest but it was nice to see the port being produced and the tasting was also interesting as well though I would have preferred the 15 Euro tour with more to taste. I then scared their gift shop into a fit by buying a bottle of 2007 vintage port. I will open it for my sixtieth birthday when it should be nice and mature. I also got two bottles of ten year old tawny.
Leixoes is very different from the places we have been visiting. It is a port pure and simple with no tourism or anything like that. The approach made that clear but it is interesting to be in a purely working port and the marina is excellent though you can smell the port as soon as you come past the breakwater. Others tried to persuade us to stop at Povoa de Varzim rather than here but I am pleased we came here. A cruise ship left this afternoon and the tug/fireboat gave it a traditional send off with all the water spraying.
All in all it was an excellent day and the weather proved very fortuitous in stopping here.
Sunday, 11 September 2011
weatherbound again
Ten years ago today I was installing some reporting software for a group of users at London Guildhall University when someone came in to say that a plane had flown into the World Trade Center. It was one of those Kennedy moments. Now, by contrast, we are weatherbound here in Combarro and doing some laundry by hand as there are no facilities for this at this marina and we have been caught out because we expected to be in Baiona by now where there are washing machines to be had. There is a laundry here in Combarro but it is a service laundry and closed on Sunday of course.
Yesterday was a frustration as we motored out of the ria into increasing wind which then proceeded to gust up to off Cabezo de la Mourisca which forced us to turn back rather than get to Baiona There was a long low blue boat tied up at the marina which announced itself as customs (Aduanas). Two very polite men proceeded to peer at all our paperwork and give us the blue copy of the form they filled out in triplicate so we can then wave that at any other customs people that may take an interest in us. Their boat was long, low and looked very serious being bedecked with spotlights and numerous aerials. It also had very large engines -presumably for intercepting drug smugglers in the remoter rias.
Today, there is a motorbike festival ashore which explains the number of bikes roaring up and down the roads yesterday. We took a wander around but my old fogey element prevented me from liking any of the hundreds of bikes around.
The weather continues to blow from the west so we are sitting here with not much to do. When I head up to the bar to post this, I will b be able to check on the forecast as well. The Spanish met office doesn't post it's forecasts very early. The Portuguese web site by contrast has a very useful table to present their information and it seems to be saying we will have northerlies by Tuesday. So it looks like we will be hanging around here for bit then.
Having just checked the forecast - we will be sitting still for a little while yet by the looks. The chances of visting Lisbon are receding as well with a long passage round to the Algarve looming now.
AGENCIA ESTATAL DE METEOROLOGIA
PREDICCION METEOROLOGICA PARA LAS ZONAS COSTERAS DE LA COMUNIDAD
AUTONOMA DE GALICIA
DIA 11 DE SEPTIEMBRE DE 2011 A LAS 08:00 UTC
1.-AVISO A LAS 0900 UTC DEL DIA 11 DE SEPTIEMBRE DE 2011:
HAY TEMPORAL FUERZA 8 DEL SW EN EL AREA DE BARES.
2.-SITUACION A LAS 00 UTC DEL DIA 11 Y EVOLUCION:
HURACAN EXTRATROPICAL KATIA SITUADO EN 47N-38W DESPLAZANDOSE
HACIA EL NORDESTE HASTA 54N-19W, CON POCOS CAMBIOS. DEPRESION DE
972 AL OESTE DE IRLANDA RELLENANDOSE Y DESPLAZANDOSE HACIA EL
NORDESTE. ANTICICLON DE 1020 AL OESTE DE CANARIAS REFORZANDOSE A
1024, CASI ESTACIONARIO.
3.-PREDICCION VALIDA HASTA LAS 24 UTC DEL DOMINGO 11:
AGUAS COSTERAS DE LUGO:
SW FUERZA 4 Y 5 ARRECIANDO EN BARES A FUERZA 6 Y 7 Y
OCASIONALMENTE FUERZA 8 Y ROLANDO Y AMAINANDO MAS TARDE EN BARES A
W-SW FUERZA 5 Y EN EL RESTO A FUERZA 4. FUERTE MAREJADA EN BARES Y
EN EL RESTO MAREJADA. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW DE 2,5 A 3 M.
AGUAS COSTERAS DE A CORUNA:
- NORTE DE FISTERRA: SW FUERZA 6 ARRECIANDO EN ORTEGAL-BARES A
FUERZA 7 Y OCASIONALMENTE FUERZA 8, AMAINANDO MAS TARDE A FUERZA 6
EN ORTEGAL-BARES Y A FUERZA 5 EN EL RESTO. FUERTE MAREJADA
DISMINUYENDO PRONTO DE FISTERRA A PRIOR A MAREJADA. MAR DE FONDO
DEL NW DE 3 M DISMINUYENDO AL FINAL A 2,5 M.
- SUR DE FISTERRA: SW FUERZA 4 A 5 AMAINANDO MAS TARDE A FUERZA 4.
MAREJADA DISMINUYENDO A MAREJADILLA. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW EN EL
ENTORNO DE 3 M DISMINUYENDO DESPUES A 2,5 M.
AGUAS COSTERAS DE PONTEVEDRA:
S-SW FUERZA 4 A 5 AMAINANDO MAS TARDE A FUERZA 4. MAREJADILLA A
MAREJADA DISMINUYENDO AL FINAL A MAREJADILLA. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW
DE 3 M EN DISMINUCION CON 2,5 M AL FINAL.
4.-INFORME DE LAS ESTACIONES A LAS 06 UTC DEL DIA 11 DE
SEPTIEMBRE: LUGO:
- SAN CIBRAO: S FUERZA 3-4. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW DE 1,5 M.
A CORUNA:
- BARES: SW FUERZA 8.
- FERROL: SW FUERZA 3.
- A CORUNA: SE FUERZA 4.
- VILAN: SW FUERZA 6.
- FISTERRA: SW FUERZA 6.
for those of you who don't read Spanish - Hurricane Katia is moving north east though it isn't really a hurricane now but is bringing strong winds. The Azores high has retreated well to the south and we can expect south or sw force 4-5 though we are seeing closer to 6 or 7 here. The direction is the critical thing as S-SW is exactly where we want to go. Grrr. :-(
Yesterday was a frustration as we motored out of the ria into increasing wind which then proceeded to gust up to off Cabezo de la Mourisca which forced us to turn back rather than get to Baiona There was a long low blue boat tied up at the marina which announced itself as customs (Aduanas). Two very polite men proceeded to peer at all our paperwork and give us the blue copy of the form they filled out in triplicate so we can then wave that at any other customs people that may take an interest in us. Their boat was long, low and looked very serious being bedecked with spotlights and numerous aerials. It also had very large engines -presumably for intercepting drug smugglers in the remoter rias.
Today, there is a motorbike festival ashore which explains the number of bikes roaring up and down the roads yesterday. We took a wander around but my old fogey element prevented me from liking any of the hundreds of bikes around.
The weather continues to blow from the west so we are sitting here with not much to do. When I head up to the bar to post this, I will b be able to check on the forecast as well. The Spanish met office doesn't post it's forecasts very early. The Portuguese web site by contrast has a very useful table to present their information and it seems to be saying we will have northerlies by Tuesday. So it looks like we will be hanging around here for bit then.
Having just checked the forecast - we will be sitting still for a little while yet by the looks. The chances of visting Lisbon are receding as well with a long passage round to the Algarve looming now.
AGENCIA ESTATAL DE METEOROLOGIA
PREDICCION METEOROLOGICA PARA LAS ZONAS COSTERAS DE LA COMUNIDAD
AUTONOMA DE GALICIA
DIA 11 DE SEPTIEMBRE DE 2011 A LAS 08:00 UTC
1.-AVISO A LAS 0900 UTC DEL DIA 11 DE SEPTIEMBRE DE 2011:
HAY TEMPORAL FUERZA 8 DEL SW EN EL AREA DE BARES.
2.-SITUACION A LAS 00 UTC DEL DIA 11 Y EVOLUCION:
HURACAN EXTRATROPICAL KATIA SITUADO EN 47N-38W DESPLAZANDOSE
HACIA EL NORDESTE HASTA 54N-19W, CON POCOS CAMBIOS. DEPRESION DE
972 AL OESTE DE IRLANDA RELLENANDOSE Y DESPLAZANDOSE HACIA EL
NORDESTE. ANTICICLON DE 1020 AL OESTE DE CANARIAS REFORZANDOSE A
1024, CASI ESTACIONARIO.
3.-PREDICCION VALIDA HASTA LAS 24 UTC DEL DOMINGO 11:
AGUAS COSTERAS DE LUGO:
SW FUERZA 4 Y 5 ARRECIANDO EN BARES A FUERZA 6 Y 7 Y
OCASIONALMENTE FUERZA 8 Y ROLANDO Y AMAINANDO MAS TARDE EN BARES A
W-SW FUERZA 5 Y EN EL RESTO A FUERZA 4. FUERTE MAREJADA EN BARES Y
EN EL RESTO MAREJADA. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW DE 2,5 A 3 M.
AGUAS COSTERAS DE A CORUNA:
- NORTE DE FISTERRA: SW FUERZA 6 ARRECIANDO EN ORTEGAL-BARES A
FUERZA 7 Y OCASIONALMENTE FUERZA 8, AMAINANDO MAS TARDE A FUERZA 6
EN ORTEGAL-BARES Y A FUERZA 5 EN EL RESTO. FUERTE MAREJADA
DISMINUYENDO PRONTO DE FISTERRA A PRIOR A MAREJADA. MAR DE FONDO
DEL NW DE 3 M DISMINUYENDO AL FINAL A 2,5 M.
- SUR DE FISTERRA: SW FUERZA 4 A 5 AMAINANDO MAS TARDE A FUERZA 4.
MAREJADA DISMINUYENDO A MAREJADILLA. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW EN EL
ENTORNO DE 3 M DISMINUYENDO DESPUES A 2,5 M.
AGUAS COSTERAS DE PONTEVEDRA:
S-SW FUERZA 4 A 5 AMAINANDO MAS TARDE A FUERZA 4. MAREJADILLA A
MAREJADA DISMINUYENDO AL FINAL A MAREJADILLA. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW
DE 3 M EN DISMINUCION CON 2,5 M AL FINAL.
4.-INFORME DE LAS ESTACIONES A LAS 06 UTC DEL DIA 11 DE
SEPTIEMBRE: LUGO:
- SAN CIBRAO: S FUERZA 3-4. MAR DE FONDO DEL NW DE 1,5 M.
A CORUNA:
- BARES: SW FUERZA 8.
- FERROL: SW FUERZA 3.
- A CORUNA: SE FUERZA 4.
- VILAN: SW FUERZA 6.
- FISTERRA: SW FUERZA 6.
for those of you who don't read Spanish - Hurricane Katia is moving north east though it isn't really a hurricane now but is bringing strong winds. The Azores high has retreated well to the south and we can expect south or sw force 4-5 though we are seeing closer to 6 or 7 here. The direction is the critical thing as S-SW is exactly where we want to go. Grrr. :-(
Friday, 9 September 2011
Pontevedra Now
We have just arrived at Combarro near the top of the naviable part of Ria Pontevedra. It was a surprisingly long trip round here from A Pobra de Caramiñal being over 20 miles but it is really nice here and the batteries are now nearly completely charged up which is a good thing. Our intention was to run up to Pontevedra itself with a view to visiting the chart agent there. However, as it is now past three, we are going to spend the night here at anchor, go into the marina tomorrow and then finally head off to Bayona on Saturday before taking off for Portugal.
The relief of having the ability to charge our batteries is huge though it would have been nicer not to have had to spend three days in limbo at Vila Nova
Now we are in Combarro after a longer than expected motor. Usually I chafe badly at having to motor much – something we have done a lot of on this cruise – but this time it felt good to know that a good bit of charge was going into the batteries.
Combarro is a funny town. It had it's origins in an old fishing village that wound up being selected for preservation and so is the first genuinely touristy place we have visiteed complete with street hawkers. The old village is ruthlessly restored with tiny but immaculate granite houses complete with a huge number of stone grain stores known as horrários
We spent last night at anchor but today we are in the marina having the avowed plan of going to Pontevedra to find a chart agent. As it happens, we found a suitable commercially produced chart of Ria de Vigo in the little chandlery here. We then completely failed to find the bus stop so failed to get to Pontevedra. Still, we had a good lunch in a local cafe of which there are dozens.
Tomorrow we head round to Baiona (Bayona en Castellano) where we will take our departure from NW Spain and head south to Portugal. First stop is planned to be Leixoes just outside Porto. Then, on to Lisboa, possibly breaking the trip at Peniche or Figuera da Foz.
The relief of having the ability to charge our batteries is huge though it would have been nicer not to have had to spend three days in limbo at Vila Nova
Now we are in Combarro after a longer than expected motor. Usually I chafe badly at having to motor much – something we have done a lot of on this cruise – but this time it felt good to know that a good bit of charge was going into the batteries.
Combarro is a funny town. It had it's origins in an old fishing village that wound up being selected for preservation and so is the first genuinely touristy place we have visiteed complete with street hawkers. The old village is ruthlessly restored with tiny but immaculate granite houses complete with a huge number of stone grain stores known as horrários
We spent last night at anchor but today we are in the marina having the avowed plan of going to Pontevedra to find a chart agent. As it happens, we found a suitable commercially produced chart of Ria de Vigo in the little chandlery here. We then completely failed to find the bus stop so failed to get to Pontevedra. Still, we had a good lunch in a local cafe of which there are dozens.
Tomorrow we head round to Baiona (Bayona en Castellano) where we will take our departure from NW Spain and head south to Portugal. First stop is planned to be Leixoes just outside Porto. Then, on to Lisboa, possibly breaking the trip at Peniche or Figuera da Foz.
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